Livin' the Dream: Galapagos, Ecuador (v1) (29 Jan 2007

Galapagos Overview

Blue line = v1: Isabela Excursion (29 Jan '07 - 31 Jan '07)

Red line = v2: Yolita Tour (01 Feb '07 - 08 Feb '07)

Yellow Dots = v3: Scuba Dive Sites (07 Feb '07; 09 Feb '07 - 10 Feb '07)

Isla Santa Cruz

As I was typing the first blog entry of this trip, it occurred to me that I was not having an enjoyable time writing it, and that, conversely, nobody could possibly have an enjoyable time reading it. I promptly discarded the mini-novel that that developed on the computer screen, deciding that only a sado-masochist would subject oneself (and others) to such misery. Recollections of how rewarding past travel blogging has been, however, have ultimately drawn me back to this hot and humid internet cafe in Puerto Ayora.

Puerto Ayora is a bustling port town on the island of Santa Cruz. During midday, the town's activity is tempered by the oppressive equatorial sunshine, but by six or seven, the town awakens from its afternoon slumber and the volleyball begins. It seems like the entire male population of the town congregates by two courts in the center of town to play and watch semi-competitive volleyball games every evening. It is a shame that most travellers only stop here for a day or two before embarking or disembarking from a multi-day boat tour of the other islands. Rogers and I, for instance, were in Puerto Ayora for less than three hours before we were whisked away by speedboat to the western island of Isabela.

Isla Isabela

The island of Isabela is the result of conjoined lava flows from six different volcanoes, four of which remain active. We rode horses to the top of once such Volcano, Volcan Sierra Negra, and galloped around the rim of the world's second largest crater (10 km). Afterwards, we hiked through unearthly lava fields to a younger volcano, Volcan Chico.

The next day we snorkeled at Tintoreros and caught our first glimpses of the characteristic Galapagos fauna: sea lions, marine iguanas, and Galapagos penguins. The island's volcanic geology has created an ideal area for snorkeling, characterized by numerous underwater lava caves and tunnels. I was attempting to swim through one such tunnel when I found myself face to face with a white tipped reef shark. White tips are relatively harmless and this particular one was no more than a meter in length, but I still suffered quite a shock at my first shark sighting.

After two days on Isabela, we returned to Santa Cruz for some relaxation at Tortuga Bay, which is one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. We also managed to capsize a sea kayak and lose a paddle in the tidal waves of Academy Bay a few hours before boarding the economy boat Yolita for an 8 day tour of the other islands.